Friday, December 21, 2007

We have Seen the Light (house) That is...

Me duele el cuello (I hurt my neck) so we skipped yard work and took a drive. Drives that should take us only 20 or 30 minutes end up taking more than an hour because roads are not marked well, maps don't have all the roads on them, and not all roads go where the signs say they go! The last time we tried to find the Cabo Rojo lighthouse we ended up driving through ranch land near Guanica in a big circle before ending up at Boqueron Beach. That is part of the fun of it, the drive will always bring you somewhere! This drive was no different. We drove around following the map and ended up going through little towns and ranch land and then down a long dirt road to nowhere - put us in the mangroves of the Boqueron Wildlife Area where people bike around and on a private little beach a couple bays over guessed it, the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse. We worked our way back out and got on track, went down another long dirt, potholed road (seeing a rather large iguana in the road), and parked at the end with the Lighthouse in sight! We took a walk out to it and talked for a while with the caretaker Pedro. We strolled outside to take it all in.

Inside they have got views all around and Pedro put together a nice aerial video of the Island with historical information as well. Well done. From the top of the lighthouse you can see water in all directions.

On the north side of the lighthouse the seas are a little rougher than to the south. It was a pretty windy day and things were a little stirred up with some white caps in the far distance.

When you reverse tracks and head to the trails going south of the lighthouse you come out at a lovely little crescent shaped beach called La Playuela. There were a few families out set up under the trees with coolers and stuff, just sipping drinks and playing in the gloriously warm water. We have been here before when the water was flat and pure turquise. Today it was a little stirred up with the wind but just as warm and enjoyable.

So after our strolling/beach afternoon we were hungry and decided to head to Joyuda - we kept hearing people talk about how this is the seafood area with lots of good seafood restaurants. Well it was disappointing. The spot was wonderful, near the Isla the Ratones (island of the rats), the sun and light breeze were comfortable but...we have yet to find a good restaurant we like here. We have liked Amparo's (our neighbor lady) corn sticks and arroz con gandules, we have really liked Hamilton's sisters pastelles and his wife Guillermina's dulce con arroz, and we can eat rice and beans and roast chicken every meal but...where can we get a nice piece of broiled or baked fish that isn't swimming in a pool of oil? I love tostones. Yuca and yautia are decent starches. Fruit is absolutely awesome. But where is a simple piece of non-fried fish? I have heard of El Ancla in it there? On the up side the places we have enjoyed eating (sometimes we drive too far and don't bring food with us) are El Mezon (excellent sandwiches on good bread), Mr Special cafeteria (good and inexpensive as well), Ricomini Panederia and in a pinch Tropical Pollo (for Sancocho if it is a cool day). A real treat is a Mr. Pretzel at the mall. Soft and doughy and hot and salty. A nice surprise!

1 comment:

Minerva said...

Have you found a good place with fish already? If not I like two places in Boqueron: Fishnet - unpretentious, good fish, and Galloway's : love their sallad with lobster, actually their anything (except mofongo, which I don't like at all) lobster. Thirs is never overcooked, never tough.
In Rincon there seems to be a ton of places with great fish and seafood. Last friday I had one of the specials at Smiling Joe's restaurant at Lazy Parror Inn (on road 413): a crab encrusted shark. Yumm. My friend had mahi fusion: very spicy, with some kind of salsa (pico de gallo type), asparagus and risotto. Very good, too.